North and across the Sea of Cortez

Isla San Francisco

We have been quite busy since La Paz.  Upon leaving the city, we headed for Isla Palmira to anchor for the night before heading to Isla San Francisco which was our first desired destination.  This lovely island includes a beach on the southern end called "The Hook".  Our first morning, we climbed to the highest point on the island to take a picture of the beach and boat.  The climb was a little nerve wracking because just to the left of the path was a sheer drop.  We enjoyed watching our mountain goat (er daughter) climb.  She's a fast hiker and even faster when climbing boulders.  

At the top of San Francisco

After Palmira, we sailed along the coast to Bahia Agua Verde which very much lives up to its green water name.  There we enjoyed a hike along the beach and saw a number of goats.  This was the first place in Mexico where we saw a multitude of animals other than dogs.  I think I've seen three cats - two of which were kittens.  Dogs, however, are a completely different story.  They are everywhere and all but two have been calm and quiet.  I could devote a whole entry on dogs, but in more rural areas they seem so much like the people: quiet and watchful.

We next sailed to Puerto Escondido - the nearest marina to Loreto - our goal.  Once at Puerto Escondido, we learned that the best way to get to Loreto was to rent a car.  It was cheaper than a taxi and allowed us to take a fun side trip.  The road to Loreto was one of the best roads I've driven.  It was only about 20 km, but still.  There, we toured the town, the mission and its accompanying museum.  The church has a 300+ year old porcelain statue/doll which was in good shape, considering its age.  Each year, they provide a new dress for it.  

We still had several hours before dark - therefore, rather than provisioning and heading back to the boat, we drove 36 km out to another mission (yes, *I* like to visit missions).  The drive was a lot of fun: curvy roads with many water crossings.  We marveled at how many times we had to drive through 1-5 inches of water.  It must be impassable during the rainy season.  Some of the road signs (of falling rock and literal 90 degree turns) were funny enough to take pictures.  We made it to San Ignacio where we were greeted at the church by a helpful local who told us about its history and paintings.   As with the mission in Loreto, flash photography was not allowed.  Little wonder: the paintings need restoring from years of smoke and exposure.

Nuestra Señora de Loreto

A cement replica of the statue/doll inside. The date reads Oct. 25, 1697....

One of many fun road signs on the way to San Ignacio

Checking the water level before crossing in the rental car

San Ignacio

Inside San Ignacio: old and dark paintings of several saints

After our excursion, we headed back to Loreto for dinner and provisions.  By this time, we were eager to batten down the hatches and prepare to sail across the Sea of Cortez the following morning. There was a small craft advisory which meant good sailing weather (winds from 15-20 knots and gusting to 23).  We really wanted to sail and not waste fuel.  We left as soon as we had topped off the fuel and water and returned the rental car.  That was about 11 am.  Twenty hours later, we pulled into the marina at Topolobampo (so much fun to say!) where the night security guard helped us dock.  Almost immediately, he encouraged us to go to Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon) - especially since I asked about it.  

Blessedly, we were able to make all the reservations for a taxi, train and hotel in Creel, Chihuahua.  The train ride was 9 hours of which 8 were amazing views of gorges and mountains, many bridge crossings and tunnels.  Definitely a marvel of which the country and state are rightly proud.  The views were indescribable and the photos do not do them justice.  But I'll include them anyway.  At one of the stops, a small mob of Tarahumara (Indian) women approached the train carrying their handwoven baskets.  We bought several - some of which were very recently made - the straw was a little wet and smells wonderful.  These were so cheap (20 pesos - about $1.30) that we launched into a conversation with the kids of the econonics of making money that way.  

Having fun in the gap between rail cars

One of many views that had us in awe

Another view from the train

The basket makers

On Christmas Eve, we decided that the best way for us to see the Canyon was to ride the "tisoleras" or zip lines.  We rode 7 totaling at least 3.5 km (the longest was 1100 m).  This was thrilling and the views again were spectacular.  Finally, on the last ride of 700 m, I was able to see my shadow a couple hundred meters below.  Definitely a must.  We teased the kids a couple times - they don't quite weigh enough to make it all the way to the next platform so they would start pulling themselves hand over hand and then the guide would zip out and pull them in.  On the 1100 m zip, they rode together with a guide so that there was enough weight to get across.  That was the fastest either of zipped.  In between the zips, we either hiked to the next platform or crossed a swaying footbridge.  We were all pretty stoked after the day's events.  This trip was our Christmas present to ourselves.  Dave and I Noted it was also the first time we slept anywhere but the boat since August.

Ready to zip!

Traversing the swinging bridge.  Don't look down! (Don't worry - we were clipped in to the bridges guide-line.....)

Waiting for one of the longer runs -534 meters 

This is the only still shot of any of us.  I had untucked from a faster position to slow down before hitting the wooden brake/block. In the background, the guide is heading out to pull in our son.

David waiting to cross the first bridge

Yup! Zip lining was a great way to see the canyon. That smile didn't leave his face until we were done zipping

Christmas Day was slow.  We tried to go to church, but none of the townsfolk we spoke to knew when it was.  We arrived at 8 am, but that was obviously wrong.  After breakfast, we saw many Tarahumara Indians walking into town; so after grabbing the camera, we followed them back to the church where the men were performing a slow, rhythmic dance while everyone else looked on.  Then, on silent cue, they all started streaming into the church. As there were so many of them, we opted not to follow.  Instead, we went back to our log cabin of a hotel room and played cards (well, the others played while I napped).  Later, we played pool and ping pong in the main building and went back to our favorite restaurant for a 3rd time (we highly recommend Tio Molcas if you're ever in Creel).

Preparing for church - yes, it was a cold and windy day

Our home for a few days - including Christmas

And a non sequitur....

My new favorite shorebird, an American Oystercatcher. Love the flat, red beak and cute calls

We are leaving today (Dec. 28) on a 40 hour sail to Mazatlan.