Saturday, March 14, 2015

For the Birds (21º 50.894' N, 105º 52.726' W)

I am not a fan of the term "bucket list"; I think my aspirations deserve better than a bucket. Nonetheless, I was pleasantly surprised when David told me that seeing a blue footed booby was on his "bucket list".  We were both pleased to check off that goal at our most recent anchorage (and it wasn't the Galapagos).

On our way south from Mazatlan to Nuevo Vallarta six weeks ago or so, we did not get to rest as planned at Isla Isabella because were chased by a lighting storm.

This time, as we headed north (back to Mazatlan before jumping over to the Baja coast), we stopped at Isla Isabella.  We anchored at th enortheastern anchorage of the island, just south of two bird "frosting" covered rocks.  The anchorage was a bit trick - we had to re-set once because the anchor caught on a rock and that didn't hold.  Thanksfully, the second time was in a large patch of sand.  We anchored around 8 am and then rested while the kids did school work.  Around noon, I swam to shore to check out hte landing conditions for our tender.  Not good: the beach was coral and lava rock - neither of which are kind to soft-bottomed boats or their motor.   Also, I was concerned for my own safety when landing on the beach - so no swimming for the rest of the family.  I swam with water shoes, but it was quite rocky.  I meandered briefly down the beach until i was surprised by a nest of a blue-footed booby just beyond the reach of the highest tide.  Woah!  That was pretty exciting!  David must have watched me swim ashore and have trouble landing for when i returned to the boat, he was already inflating the tender.

The rocks we anchored near.

After lunch, the four of us motored around to the south side of the island where there's a fishing camp and an abandoned warden's building/interpretive center.  In the early '90's, the island had been made into a national park and as such is protected.  We landed the tender easily in the gentle waves and pulled to boat up beyond the fishermen's pangas and nets.  we then found the trailhead behind their huts and hiked to see the birds.

The fishermen tied their boats to lines stretching from the shore and ran an anchor out into the water past the breaking waves.

I think Alfred Hitchcock had some inspiration in this island.  The din (& stench) were incredible.  Thousands of magnificent frigatebirds roost in the low trees.  Much of the trail was covered in bird frosting. We saw some large lizards (not the 4' iguanas we've seen in other areas, but up to a foot long), but no other animal or scat or other indications.  As near as I could tell, there were no bird predators on this Mexican National Park.  We first came upon a circular pond in a long-extinct, shallow volcanic crater and then continued hiking north to the tip of the island.  Along the hike we saw many frigatebird fledglings in their nests and walked quickly to the cover of other trees to avoid being splattered.  Our daughter was quite saddened by seeing a fledgling on the ground.  It was downy white and had no way of returning to the nest.

Fallen fledging

Safe fledgling

Our son captured this shot of a frigatebird

Male frigate birds have the red neck while immature ones have the white heads and the remainder are adult females.   These shrubs/trees are only about 20 feet high at most.


At the tip of the island we came upon blue-footed boobies and brown boobies which have yellow or yellow-green feet.  And crabs - lots and lots of brightly colored orange and red crabs that scuttled away when they saw us - or more likely, our shadow.

A brown booby - note the yellow-green feet and brown neck.

Sweet little face.


And look at that pretty blue foot! Heads are grey or white....  David and the kids were disappointed their feet weren't a more brilliant blue.  I guess they were looking for royal blue.

Yes, the nests (if you can call them that) were right on the ground.  The birds and their eggs were incredibly exposed.

Somewhat bored kids.  At least one is using the binoculars.

I really didn't want to leave this spot at the northern end of the island.  Gorgeous view.

Not sure what type of tree it is, but it reminds me of a small banyan.

He was ready to turn back.  And yes, that's more "frosting" on the trail.  Needless to say, everyone's shoes were rinsed in the ocean, sprayed with fresh water and left in the sun for the UV rays to kill any remaining ick.

The only non-avian animal we saw on the island.

Nets cost about $5000 Mx (5000 pesos).  Pretty expensive considering that minimum wage for hotel and restaurant workers is 100 pesos/day.  The US Dollar, as of this writing, is about 15 pesos.  So net maintenance is pretty important.

Taken with zoom lens while at Isla Isabella anchorage.  Not bad for a shot taken on a slightly rocky boat.

Goodbye Isla Isabella (taken just north of the island).


2 comments:

  1. Wonderful post! How high off the ground were the frigate bird nests?

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  2. I would say no more than 10 feet.

    ReplyDelete